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FATHER MARQUETTE 



MACKINAW AND CHICAGO. 



A PAPER. 

Head before the Chic.a.go Historical Society, October 15, 1878. 

By Henry H^ 'Hurlbut. 




CHICAGO: 

Jansen, McClurg & Company. 
1878. 



^ 4G229 

Historical Society Rooms,' 

Chicago, October 17, 1878. 
Henry H. Hurlbut, Esq., 

Dear Sir: — I have the honor to inform you, in behalf of the 

Chicago Historical Society, that a unanimous vote of thanks was extended to- 

you for your excellent paper on " Father Marquette at Mackinaw and- 

Chicago," which you read before the Society on the evening of October 15, 

and a request was made that you furnish the Society with a copy of it for 

preservation in its archives. 

Very Respectfully, 

ALBERT D. HAGER, 

Secretarv^ 



^"OFCOSS^ 




Father Marquette 

AT 

Mackinaw and Cliicago. 



The able and eloquent oration of Rev. Dr. Duffield, at 
Mackinaw, published in the Chicago Times of the 15th of 
August last; has led me to say something referring to it and 
the good missionary, as well as the proposed enterprise of 
erecting an obelisk. I trust it may not be considered alto- 
gether unpardonable, if I have questioned or denied the cor- 
rectness of some of the positions assumed by the orator 
referred to, for the truth of history certainly is the most im- 
portant interest involved. 

It is creditable to our common humanity when the grateful 
hearts of all classes of worthy citizens unite to pay a tribute 
of respect to the memory of a good man. It was suggested 
several years since, as well as more recently, that Chicago 
should erect a pillar in honor of Father Marquette; she may 
do so in the future, uniting, perhaps, with his name those of 
other pioneers, whose memory is identified with Chicago of 
long ago. Yet it seems fitting that, at the Island of Macki- 
naw, now a national park, a monument to the missionary 
should be reared, towering heavenward, at the Straits, the 
grand gateway of the Northwest, the field of labor of the de- 
voted priest. Besides, Michigan has a prior claim to his 
celebrity; her early forests sheltered his form, she received his 



4 FATHER MARQUETTE 

expiring breath, and her soil contains his dust. I regret, how- 
ever, that the orator at Mackinaw deemed it expedient to 
ignore the fact that Louis Joliet was at the head of the expe- 
dition wherein Father Marquette unintentionally achieved his 
fame. It was Joliet who, it is said, had previously been near 
the Mississippi, that was selected by the government of New 
France to explore the great river; Marquette was a7t ecclesi- 
astical attache. The one sought the glory of the French 
realm by extending its discoveries and enlarging its posses- 
sions; the other was ambitious to carry the knowledge of the 
true God to the benighted natives of the wilderness. That- 
Joliet faithfully carried out his instructions and fulfilled his 
mission in the expedition to the Mississippi, we have no reason 
to doubt. But it was his great misfortune that, just upon the 
eve of his return, and of rendering the minute and extended 
report of his journey and discoveries, he was capsized from 
his canoe in the rapids above Montreal. By this accident his 
maps, his journal, and all his notes and papers were irrecover- 
ably lost, and he barely escaped with his life. Joliet made a 
report to the government from memory, yet it lacked the 
particular and elaborate items which made up the daily 
journal, and hence the prestige and value of the original were 
wanting. We have no reason to believe otherwise than that 
the same enterprising and fearless spirit of adventure attended 
the footsteps of Sieur Joliet as waited upon those of the good 
missionary. Dr. Duffield says: "The honor of this discov- 
ery" (meaning the Mississippi) "has unjustly been given to 
La Salle, and also to Father Hennepin." Now, though Dr. 
D., it would seem, has scarcely been just to the memory of 
Joliet, I would deprecate any wrong done by shorn honors to 
Father Marquette. But really, of the public services of each 
of the gentlemen named, none need be ignorant; no conceit 



AT MACKINAW AND CHICAGO. 5 

of narrow-minded authors, nor the blundering stupidity of 
literary quacks, can entail any lasting injury upon the fame of 
either. Joliet and Marquette arrived at the Father of Waters 
in June, 1673, while La Salle did not reach and descend that 
river for nearly nine years afterward, not until early in 1682, 
though he had dispatched Father Hennepin upward thereon 
two years before. Dr. Shea, the author, whose admiration of 
James Marquette is second to none, when referring to his ex- 
pedition to the Mississippi with Joliet, says: "France would 
have derived no benefit from this discovery but for the enter- 
prise and persevering courage of Robert Cavelier de la Salle. 
When Joliet passed down Lake Ontario, in 1674, he stopped 
at Fort Frontenac, where La Salle was then commander un- 
der Frontenac. He was thus one of the first to know the 
result of Joliet's voyage, and perhaps was one of the few that 
saw his maps and journal, which were lost before he reached 
the next French post." 

James Marquette was born in Laon, France, in the year 
1637, became a Jesuit at the age of seventeen, and twelve 
years afterward, in 1666, sailed for Canada as a missionary, 
landing at Quebec, in September of that year. During the 
two succeeding years he was engaged in studying the Lidian 
languages, and in the spring of 1668, he embarked, via the 
Ottawa and French rivers and Lake Huron, for the River St. 
Mary, at the falls of which a mission was to be established, 
with Marquette at its head. There were of the same religious 
faith earlier missionaries than Marquette, in the region of the 
great upper lakes, who were brave and devoted men ; but it 
was Marquette's tour to the Mississippi which has made his 
name pre-eminently famous. Pushing out as he did into the 
region of the yet undiscovered wonders of the great valley, 
details of which journey have been fortunately preserved to 



6 FATHER MARQUETTE 

US by his faithful obedience to the instructions of his Superior, 
our admiration is enhsted by the charm of its romance. Yet 
it was the lofty aim of Marquette to be of enduring service to 
his fellow men; it was his integrity, his unselfishness, his un- 
tiring zeal, his gentle and uncomplaining disposition, and his 
early self-sacrifice near akin to martyrdom, that command our 
sympathies, and these are what made him truly great. 

Dr. Duffield, I think, had a wrong impression when he said : 
"Taking probably the short trail through the woods, which is 
still distinctly visible, he found his admirable companion at 
Point St. Ignace." If I understand the Doctor's language 
correctly, it means that Marquette left the Falls of St. Mary 
(in 1673) over land, for Point Ignace, where he found his 
"admirable companion," meaning Joliet. There are facts 
which seem to conflict with the statement. Quite unlikely is 
it that Marquette, had he been at St. Mary, would have taken 
so uncomfortable a mode of travel as going on foot, through 
the swamps and tangles, from the Falls to Point Ignace, when 
so convenient a mode as by canoe was at hand. But I do 
not believe that Marquette was ever, either in life or death, at 
what is now called Point St. Ignace. However, be that as it 
may, from St. Mary's, in the autumn of 1669, he was chosen 
to go to Lapoint, or Chegoimegon, near the west end of Lake 
Superior, to continue the labors begun some years before by 
Allouez, or still earlier by Menard. In the spring of 1671, 
Marquette accompanied the fleeing Hurons, who sought a 
refuge at the Straits of Mackinaw from the fierce Sioux war- 
riors, who had taken the war-path against them. I think* the 
inference is a reasonable one, in the absence of positive evi- 
dence, that for safety they located on the Island of Mackinaw. 
There, as 1 believe, was the first mission of St. Ignatius 
founded by Marquette; and thence, in the spring of 1673, 



AT MACKINAW AND CHICAGO. 7 

Joliet, the leader, having arrived, they departed on their expe- 
dition for the great river. Dr. Duffield was not, perhaps, 
aware that the mission referred to occupied several different 
localities, at various periods, namely: the Island of Macki- 
naw, and the place on the north shore now called Point St. 
Ignace, as well also the mainland, south of the Straits, since 
known as Old Mackinaw. This last-named post seems to 
have been an important one, at least in the year 1695, twenty 
years after the death of Marquette, when La Motte Cadillac, 
who had succeeded Louvigny the year before at Mackinaw, 
and subsequently the founder of Detroit, was in command 
there. In a letter of his from there, of the year above named, 
he says: "This village is one of the largest in all Canada. 
There is a fine fort of pickets, and sixty houses, that form a 
street in a straight line There is a garrison of about two 
hundred men, besides many other persons who are residents 
here during two or three months in the year." * * * "^ "" 

"The villages of the savages, in which there are six or 
seven thousand souls, are about a pistol shot from ours. All 
the lands are cleared for about three leagues around their vil- 
lage, and perfectly well cultivated. They produce a sufficient 
quantity of Indian corn for the use of both the French and 
savage inhabitants." 

The early maps and statements regarding the mission of 
St. Ignatius are either contradictory, or indefinite and unsat- 
isfactory. The map in the Jesuit Relation of 1672 shows the 
mission as on the north shore ; but from the same work, in 
the Relation of 1675, the year of Marquette's death, we learn 
that the mission existed at Old Mackinaw, and a church edi- 
fice had been erected there after the departure of Marquette, 
in 1673. On Marquette's map, drawn by himself in 1673 or 
1674, the mission of St. Ignatius appears on the Island. If 



8 FATHER MARQUETTE 

any chapel or church building was erected by Marquette dur- 
ing his short residence at the Straits, it was doubtless a slight 
or temporary structure, and need not certainly be looked for 
at this day at Point St. Ignace. La Hontan's work, and the 
map therein, have been quoted as authority concerning the 
church at St. Ignace; but La Hontan is believed by many to 
be inaccurate and unreliable. It was eight years after the 
missionary died that he came over the sea, and five years 
later still when he appeared in the West. La Hontan had 
been dismissed from the service of the French government 
when his book was written, which was published in 1703. 
That work, it is understood, was the product of ill-humor and 
spite, and is referred to in the latest Encyclopedia, as "en- 
tirely untrustworthy for details of fact." 

From a letter of Dr. J. G. Shea to myself, I quote as fol- 
lows: "Though it is more than twenty years since I first wrote,. 
I have never been able to identify the various positions which 
the mission of St. Ignace assumed at Mackinaw. The vague- 
ness and uncertainty continue." 

As for the late report that the grave of Father James Mar- 
quette has been discovered and identified, I must, in the ab- 
sence of satisfactory evidence, and 'for reasons herein named, 
doubt its truth. Even with the assurance of Dr. Dufiield, 
and the plea of Mr. Barnes, that we may place entire faith in 
the story, I must yet, with all due deference, cling to the 
probabilities, and believe the tale a sheer delusion. The great 
difficulty in the way of identifying the grave and remains of 
Father Marquette is, first, to establish the locality or neigh- 
borhood where they were last placed, and then to determine 
which grave is the right one. By the east coast of Lake 
Michigan, on his way to the Straits, it is well known that 
Father Marquette was first buried, where he died. Two years 



t> 



AT MACKINAW AND CHICAGO. 9 

later, that is, in 1677, his remains are said to have been taken 
to Mackinaw. Tradition has it that his bones were re-interred 
more than once, and again, that his grave within the founda- 
tion walls of a church on the north shore was washed into 
the lake. Furthermore, not a few believe that his last burial 
was at old Mackinaw, on the south peninsula. The late Dr. 
Amsden, of St Joseph, Mich., who was familiar with the lan- 
guages of the Indians living along the borders of Lake Mich- 
igan, told, many years ago, of some traditionary knowledge 
among them about Father Marquette, and that they pointed 
out to him the missionary's grave on the river bank, where he 
died. But a similar tradition about his grave was recorded by 
Charlevoix, who was on Lake Michigan a hundred years 
earlier, or forty-six years after Marquette's death. 

It is claimed that the fragments of a mocock of Indian 
manufacture, supposed to have inclosed the bones of Father 
Marquette, have been found within the ruins of an old church 
at Point St. Ignace, though then, unfortunately, that grave 
neither presented an inscription nor contained a bone. But 
it must be conceded that the remains of many devout Roman 
Catholics may have been buried in bark mococks, and withm 
the walls of churches, during the twenty decades which have 
passed since the remains of the missionary arrived at the 
Straits. I will allow that, under the circumstances, old stone 
walls were very suggestive; local pride, also, naturally, for 
honorable distinction, avails itself of the possibilities; and a 
fertile imagination, sometimes, by constructing plausible theo- 
ries, lends specious aid to him that delves for the hidden. 
From all the facts of which we are as yet cognizant, I must 
believe that the dust of Father Marquette still lies enshrouded 
in the depths of a grave whose position is one of doubt and 
uncertainty. 



lO FATHER MARQUETTE 

The writer of this, not without some fear that he may have 
incurred the charge of personating the iconoclast, still re- 
joices in the possession of an immense bump of reverence for 
the antique; yet, as a general remark, of which, of course, I 
make no special application, I will say, when credulous igno- 
rance or designing humbuggery essays to invest the unreal 
with the habiliments of the true relic, our faith may well 
stumble, and propriety exclaim, "Alas! for the quidnuncs!" 

Dr. Dufifield says: "On October 25, 1674, Marquette again 
left St. Ignace to fulfill a promise to the Indians in Illinois." 
If the Doctor had said St. Xavier, instead of St. Ignace, he 
Avould have been nearer right, for at that mission on Fox 
River, near Green Bay, he had just passed a full year in poor 
health. From there he kept a journal of his movements, 
commencing on that 25th day of October, the which formed 
a letter, though never finished, to his Superior, Claude Dab- 
Ion, at Quebec. Even at this far away day, the sympathies 
of the reader of that journal can scarcely help being moved 
by the infirmities of the failing missionary, toiling through 
the storms of that inclement season, without murmur (except- 
ing, perhaps, to say, "cabined poorly enough"), forty days 
from Green Bay to Chicago, where he w^as obliged to stop, 
short of his destination. The precise spot where the mission- 
ary made his temporary home I am unable to designate, but 
it was unquestionably upon the soutJi branch of Chicago 
River, and not on the north, as sometimes said. I think it 
quite likely, that near where the outlet of Mud Lake joins the 
south branch, sheltered somewhat by the grove that skirted 
the water side, the feeble, though courageous man, pitched 
his tent. 

Joliet and Marquette, on their return from the Mississippi 
the year before, came by way of the Illinois, the Desplaines 



AT MACKINAW AND CHICAGO. II 

and Chicago. As far as satisfactorily proven, they were the 
first white men who placed foot upon the soil, or voyaged 
upon the stream, at Chicago. I am aware that Charlevoix 
tells that Nicholas Perot was here several years before them, 
but Dr. Shea, the editor of a late edition of Charlevoix, claims 
that the source of Charlevoix's information does not warrant 
the statement. I am inclined to think, however, that it would 
appear, could we arrive at the truth of the case, that more 
than one white man had been at Chicago before either Joliet, 
Marquette, or Perot, even if the latter may have been here in 
1670. We are assured that Jean Nicolet, a Frenchman, an 
envoy from Canada, was at Green Bay in the year 1639, where 
he held a treaty with several thousand Indians. This council 
was held purposely to form a reciprocal and friendly acquaint- 
ance with the natives whose country bordered on the great 
upper lakes. It was designed to extend the dominion of the 
French King, Louis XIII., and specially and directly to aid 
and further the traffic of Canadian merchants, who wished to 
furnish their red brothers of the wilderness, in exchange for 
furs, the conveniences and luxuries, as well as the gauds and 
taints, of civilization. Nicolet, on this visit, crossed the port- 
age to the Wisconsin, but we are not advised that any of his 
party went further south. Yet I am loth to believe that thirty 
years passed away after Nicolet's introduction at Green Bay 
before any Canadian trader coasted along the Illinois shore of 
Lake Michigan, or, following a then old-time route, went up 
the Chicago River and down the Desplaines to the interior. 
Those early traders followed the thoroughfares to the Indian 
villages; but, ever greedy for furs which might bring lucrative 
prices and early gains, they preserved no note of their busi- 
ness tours; at least no record was left behind, that I am aware 
of, which has been kept to answer the inquiries of the present 
day. 



12 FATHER MARQUETTE 

It was the large Indian village of Kaskaskia, on the upper 
Illinois, whose people Marquette had seen on his return from 
the Mississippi the year previous, that he was now, late in 
1674, attempting to visit. The route from Green Bay was by 
the way of Sturgeon Bay {then as now so called), and the 
portage to Lake Michigan, and thence along the lake shore. 
Marquette had in his service two Frenchmen, called Peter 
Porteret, and James; of the surname of the latter we are not 
informed. As far as I know, these assistants of Father Mar- 
quette were the first, as well as the last, recorded slayers of 
the wild buffalo on Chicago soil. That they were faithful in 
their attendance upon the invalid missionary, in those weeks 
of his ebbing life tide, is quite evident; and for this, as well 
•as the fact that they were among the earliest known residents 
of Chicago, their memory vvill be preserved. 

I quote a few entries from Marquette's journal, or last let- 
ter, he having then arrived at the Chicago: 

" Dec, 4. We started well to reach Portage River,* which 
was frozen half a foot thick. There was more snow there 
than anywhere else, and also more tracks of animals and tur- 
keys. The navigation of the lake from one portage to the 
other-|- is quite fine, there being no traverse to make, and land- 
ing being quite feasible all along, providing you do not obsti- 
nately persist in traveling in the breakers and high winds. 
The land along the shore is good for nothing, except on the 
prairies. You meet eight or ten pretty fine rivers. Deer 
hunting is pretty good as you get away from the Pottawato- 
mies." 

"Dec. 12. As they began to draw to get to the portage,:]: the 

* Meaning the Chicago. _ _. 
t Meaning those of Sturgeon Bay and the Desplaines. 

* That is, upon the ice on the river, as I understand it. 



AT MACKINAW AND CHICAGO. 1 3 

Illinois having left, the Pottawatomies arrived with much diffi- 
culty.* We could not say mass on the Feast of the Conception 
on account of the bad weather and the cold. During our stay 
at the mouth of the river, Pierre and Jacques killed three buf- 
falo and four deer, one of which ran quite a distance with his 
heart cut in two. They contented themselves with killing 
three or four turkeys of the many which were around our 
cabin, because they were almost dying of hunger. Jacques 
brought in a partridge-f that he had' killed, every way resem- 
bling those of France, except that it had like two little wings 
of three or four feathers, a finger long, near the head, with 
AMhich they cover the two sides of the neck, where there are 
no feathers." 

"Dec. 14. Being cabined near the portage, two leagues;^: 
up the river, we resolved to winter there, on my inability to 
go farther, being too much embarrassed, and my malady not 
permitting me to stand much fatigue." 

When Dr. Duffield tells us that Marquette's "two faithful 
companions erected a log hut and chapel," I think the state- 
ment would be difficult to prove. The missionary's letter 
imparts all we know regarding the matter. Indeed, I am 
constrained to believe that the quarters occupied by Mar- 
quette, during that winter of his sojourn here, were hardly 
what were needed by a sick man. His domicile is called a 
cabin; yet so were all their wigwams called cabins in their 
late journey from Green Bay. The frames of those Indian 
cabins were only a trellis-work in the form of an arbor, con- 
structed of light poles fastened to the ground. Placed by the 
Indians at convenient spots along shore for camping, they 

* Two parties of Indians who left Green Bay at the same time he did are here 
referred to by Marquette. 

+ It was a grouse or prairie chicl<en no doubt. 

J The leagues were guessed at, of course, not measured. 



14 FATHER MARQUETTE 

were, when uncovered and vacated, generally left standing for 
the use of the next household of those red and irrepressible 
tramps of the wilderness. The sheathing of those cabin- 
frames was usually of bark, sometimes of mats, and was 
always carried as a part of the traveler's outfit. With such 
also were Marquette and his Frenchmen doubtless provided, 
and the like cabin-frames were those which they used. Such 
cabins were never warmed ; the small fire in the centre upon 
the ground merely warmed the hands and feet slightly when 
held near it, and the smoke found egress through the opening 
above, the same as in the Indian wigwams of to-day. That 
house, or wigwam and chapel, of Marquette at Chicago, possi- 
bly was doubly clad with bark, or mats and skins, but 1 much 
doubt its being a timber-built edifice. 

The journal again says: 

"March 30. The north wind having prevented the thaw 
till the 25th of March, it began with a southerly wind. The 
next day game began to appear; we killed thirty wild pig- 
eons, which I found better than those below,* but smaller, 
both young and old. On the 28th, the ice broke and choked 
above us. On the 29th, the water was so high that we had 
barely time to uncabin in haste, put our things on trees, and 
try to find a place to sleep on some hillock, the water gaining 
on us all night; but having frozen a little, and having fallen, 
as we were near our luggage, the dyke burst and the ice went 
down ; and as the waters are again ascending already, we are 
going to embark to continue our route." 

"March 31. Having started yesterday, we made three 
leagues on the river,-f- going up without finding any portage. 
We dragged for half an arpent. Besides this outlet the river 

* At Quebec. 

t Meanin<T Mud Lake channel. ;."s 



AT MACKINAW AND CHICAGO. 1 5 

has another,* by which we must descend. Only the very 
high grounds escape inundation. That where we aref has 
increased more than twelve feet. Here we began our port- 
age more than eighteen months ago. Geese and duck pass 
constantly. We contented ourselves with seven. The ice 
still brought down detains us here, as we do not know in what 
state the river is lower down." 

Marquette returned to Chicago, without doubt, after his 
visit to the Indian village on the Illinois, and in the month of 
May, 1675, he passed out of our river to the other side of the 
lake, and not only to the other side of it, but to the eternal 
shores beyond. On his way to Mackinaw, by the eastern 
shore of the lake, accompanied, doubtless, by the faithful Peter 
and James, he went ashore at the mouth of a river, since 
known by his name, and retired by himself, having requested 
the men to leave him alone for a brief space. But the good 
father had died in a little time, and they buried him upon the 
bank of the stream. Such is the tradition. So much, cer- 
tainly, is not unreasonable, without giving credence to the 
numerous, minute, and dramatic details, portrayed by imagin- 
ative and artistic limners, as attending the exit of that true 
gentleman and kind-hearted missionary. 

Marquette was evidently by nature a man of good intel- 
lectual ability, which had been improved by the culture of 
study and observation. He was the first to discover and tell 
us of the tidal rise and fall in the waters of Lake Michigan. 
Nearly a hundred and fifty years later the same facts were 
noticed by an officer of our army, but how much or what 
truth has since been demonstrated, or what deductions have 

* Meaning, no doubt, the Desplaines. 

t On or near the Desplaines, no doubt. ._ „ ._ , 



]6 FATHER MARQUETTE. 

been established by scientific observers regarding the phe- 
nomena, I am unable to say. 

Various utterances, indicating high Christian principle, ap- 
pear in the letters of Marquette; and though some of us may 
reject many dogmas pertaining to the religious faith of the 
Romanists, — though we may place no confidence in the Order 
to which Marquette belonged, that Order founded by Loyola, 
the government of which has been so often marked by in- 
trigue, tyranny, and crime, — yet all must concede to Father 
Marquette a sincere devotion to what he believed to be the 
most important interests of his fellow men. 

He is understood to have died on the i8th of May, 1675; 
probably the 28th, as we now count the time. He was com- 
paratively a young man, being only thirty-eight at his death. 
His physical organization and powers, we must believe, were 
quite unfitted for the ordeal of labor and exposure which he 
took upon himself Yet the sum of what he accomplished 
we are not now to know; as for earthly immortality, his name 
will not soon be forgotten. 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



017 374 417 1 i 



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HISTORIC A U: 



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Samuel J. l.iiwr. liy ^\'^r. 11. ISrsiix I'.i.r. 
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O!' S(»M1<: OF THE EARIA' ShrrrLERS 
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,:": '--■ - . ,^ 7-. 

EARLY jC HI CAGO: A LecUtie d^e- 

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, Half, May 7th, 1876.- Hy'HttxrjoiiN WKN'r- 
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EARLY CHICAGO: A Lecture de- 

Fivered in the Sunday Course, at McCormick's 

IIall,-A]Dril 11, 1875. With additional- matter. 

• never before iJublished. By Hon.'jciHX Wl?X'r- 

- \vr)KTii. With Steel Portrait. Price, 35 cents. 

9. 

PRESENT AND FUTURE 

PROSI'l-.cn\S OF CHICACiO: An Address 
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1846. liy lli-Nnv I'.RdWX, Es'j: , Author of 
■"Histor\ of Illinois." 

RIE AND PROGRESS OF CHICAGO: 

An Address ■ delivered before the- Centennial 
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|amks a. Marshall, Es,n. 

CHICAGO IN 1836: "STRANGE EARLY 
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10. 

ADDRESSES BEFORE THE 

ClIICACO HISTORICAL SOCIETY, Bv 
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A. Kix/.ie; iieo. Manierre, Luther Haven, and 
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1827; and other important matter ne\-er before 
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